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We got totally soaked by the spring rain while returning from Mt. Geumgang carrying only rice cakes and a bottle of water, yet we were moved by the fact that we had celebrated Buddha? birthday in April 2007 at Shingyesa in North Korea. Earlier in the day, we had visited Guryong-yeon, one of the three major waterfalls in Korea. On our way back down the mountain, we stopped by Shingyesa temple, site of an unforgettable celebration of Buddha? birthday. It was like a dream to be able to celebrate this day in North Korea with a South Korean monk.
To take cover from the rain, we all crowded under the eaves of the temple? Great Hero Hall where a monk greeted us warmly. Jejeong Sunim, a South Korean monk, was the planning director of the Shingyesa Restoration Project. I told him that I came with my students as part of a Forestry Cooperation Seminar between South and North Korea to visit a tree nursery and chestnut tree afforestation in Mt. Geumgang. Then I asked him to give us an overview of the restoration project.
Jejeong Sunim began by mentioning that Shingyesa was one of the four major temples of Mt. Geumgang which were all destroyed during the Korean War. Now Shingyesa is being rebuilt through the joint efforts of the Buddhist communities in both Koreas, which he felt would help open the way for their non-violent reunification and provide a place to worship the Buddha of Reunification. He added that this breakthrough Buddhist project was made possible by the meeting of auspicious causes and conditions: The South provided wood and technology; the North water, sand, earth, and historical research.

Ten years of hard work had progressed since Gosan Sunim held a commemorative restoration ceremonyin 1998. In 2001, a first-ever geographical survey was conducted around the Shingyesa temple grounds at the time of the Lantern Festival. In 2002, a memorandum of understanding (MOU) was signed between the two Koreas, and in 2004, the ground breaking ceremony was held. Jejeong Sunim was appointed as the planning director to supervise the project.
The restoration project began with the completion of the Great Hero Hall (main Buddha hall) before proceeding with restoration work on the five buildings remaining. After 10 years of hard work, the completion ceremony was held on October 13, 2007, attended by Jigwan Sunim, the President of Jogye Order of South Korea, and Yoo Young-sun, chairman of North Korea? Buddhist Federation. This practically concluded the duties of Jejeong Sunim as the planning director of the restoration project, and he returned to South Korea.
After wrapping up his comments on the temple rebuilding, the discussion naturally moved on to the beautiful pine forest standing tall around the temple like guardian deities. The view of Shingye Stream in front of the temple? Great Hero Hall was breathtaking, with rain mists covering the peaks of the surrounding mountains and the lush green forests creating a sublime panorama.
It was our good luck that there were no other visitors in Shingyesa except our group of twenty people. In addition, Hyundai Asan provided a bus for us to visit the sapling nursery, which had been established with funds from a variety of South Korean civic groups. We were able to comfortably view the beautiful scenery around Shingyesa accompanied by just Jejeong Sunim.
Jejeong Sunim talked with much enthusiasm about each aspect of the pine forest surrounding Shingye Stream. As I had experienced the profound majesty of Diamond Pines as a pine lover, I was already strolling through the trees in my mind while listening to his words.
Perhaps he felt that his praise of pine trees had run too long, for he started asking questions to the students. ?here are you from??We answered, ?e?e from Kookmin University,?to which he made an unexpected reply: ? am familiar with Prof. Chun Young-woo at Kookmin Univ. through the book he wrote.?My students quickly informed him that I was the author, making me feel sheepish. Unaware of those around us, the monk and I then had a very involved discussion on pine trees for some time.
It is interesting to note that the pine trees around Shingyesa temple are widely renowned. First of all, their unique value is attested to by the North Korean government? desig-nation of this pine forest as Natural Monument No.416. It? easy to see why the forest is protected as a Natural Heritage site, as the pine trees here are straight and dignified, giving rise to the ancient nickname, ?ine Belles.?The pine trees around Shingyesa are alternately called ?iamond Pines,?reflecting their value. Some areas of Gangwon Province and North Gyeongsang Province also have pine trees that are referred to as ?iamond Pines,?the name most likely originating from the towering pines of Mt. Geumgang (lit. diamond).
About 80 years ago, Japanese forestry scientist, Prof. Uegi Homiki conducted a nationwide survey of the pine trees in Korea. Upright pine trees distributed throughout Gangwon Province, North Gyeongsang Province, the Taebaek Mountain Range, and Yeongdong (the middle-eastern part of Korea) he classified as ?iamond Pines?and the appellation has stuck ever since.
My first brush with the pines of Shingyesa temple began in 1999. At the outset of Mt. Geumgang tourism in North Korea, there were many restrictions. I recall that our group was given only 20 minutes to look around the Shingyesa temple site. The weary tourists returning from Guryong-yeon didn? seem too thrilled to get off the bus again, as we had been following a tight schedule. However, I immediately darted out of the bus and made my way around the pine forest surrounding a three-story stone pagoda, enjoying the majesty of the straight Diamond Pines around me.
When I visited Mt. Geumgang for the second time in 2006, my mission was to evaluate the progress of he chestnut and pine tree nursery. Thanks to the generosity of the staff there, I was given my first-ever opportunity to hike in the area around Shingyesa to my heart? content. However, I was surprised to see many bare, dried-out pine trees suffering from the depredations of the pine needle gall midge which had flown in from the direction of Wonsan City. I returned from my hike full of worry.
When I visited the forest for the third time in 2007, we were overjoyed to see that the pine trees around the temple had recovered their health. Unfortunately, because of the recent deterioration in South-North relations, I don? know if we will ever again be able to see Shingyesa and its surrounding pine forest. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the two Koreas will realize a ?loodless reunification?and that the Buddha of Peaceful Reunification enshrined at the temple will one day allow us to visit the North once again.
From the May 2009 Issue of Bulgyo Munhwa, a Monthly Journal of Buddhist Culture
Chun Young-woo | PhD in Forest Biology, Iowa State University | Kookmin University Department of Forest Resources Professor Chun, aka ?r. Pine? has led the ? Love Pine?campaign since 2004 by organizing a support group called ?ine Breeze? It aims to share with the public the beauty and value of Korean red pines through the spheres of culture and art.
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